Author Topic: Hutch trailer square u-bolts  (Read 969 times)

Offline crazycarl

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Hutch trailer square u-bolts
« on: June 27, 2013, 05:56:04 PM »
the brackets and bolts that hold the tube stanchions on the 1985 hutch trailer that came with our 19 are rusty and with all the long haul trailering we plan on doing, i thought it prudent to replace them.  i happen to have 6 heavy duty stanchions from a previous trailer, but no square u-bolts.

the trailer cross members measure 3 1/16".  the exact size of most of the u-bolts available in my area and after trying several brands, i decided they were all too tight.  (needed to pound them on)

it took over an hour of searching the web for a company with galvanized bolts that weren't too wide or too long for a fair price.

i ordered 12 of them even though i only need 6.  i figured it can't hurt to have spares.

if anyone is thinking of replacing their stanchions, here is the link...

http://www.boattrailerparts.com/Galvanized-Square-Trailer-U-Bolt-12-inch-x-4-inch-x-2-1316-inch_p_1070.html


carl

p.s.  the stanchions are relatively easy to locate.


Somonauk, IL  where the washing machine was invented and the local museum's most interesting exhibit is a two headed calf!

Man invented the slowest form of transportation - the sailboat - then decided to race them. - Philosopher Unknown

Offline Mattlikesbikes

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Re: Hutch trailer square u-bolts
« Reply #1 on: June 27, 2013, 07:08:10 PM »
hey Carl can you post some pictures when you are done. I would like to see the final results

I am in almost the same situation with my 83 Magic tilt. I am in the process of replacing the keel rollers and bunks but all the bolts holding the bunk supports are rusted solid and I have no way of adjusting the new bunks . A week of PB blaster did nothing.  The Bolt is captive so I can not just cut it off. What I am going to try next is drill a hole through the bolt and use a chisel to split it. 

If that does not work I will have to do the same as you and put new stanchions  on.


Offline Mike

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Re: Hutch trailer square u-bolts
« Reply #2 on: December 15, 2013, 02:46:12 PM »
This must be a common problem...my 1985 Hutch for 19 has the same problem.  I like the idea of new stanchions but not paying for all the brackets to set it up with the pressure treated bunks at the hull and new connections at the trailer cross member.  Any ideas on west coast parts solutions would be appreciated.  I plan to travel to local lakes but want the trailer capable for two hundred mile trips.

Offline skip1930

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Re: Hutch trailer square u-bolts
« Reply #3 on: December 15, 2013, 07:03:03 PM »
From dealing with 83 year old rusted cars, try a lot of heat. That's the first key.

I'd just snap my big ViceGrip over the flat of the offending bolt. Slip over my cheater tube over the ViceGrip.
Once that was all set up I'd slip my bottle jack under the cheater tube, and jack on just a little pressure.
I don't use PB Blaster very much.
I use Kroll. What ever.
Sprits it. Heat it red hot! Sprits again. And let the jack's pressure sit on the bolt for a couple of hours. Or over night. Next day some more jack. You may actually jack the trailer up off the ground ... too much lift.
Repeat. Repeat, repeat. Keep the pressure on the bolt ... that is the second key.

I had an 1957 CJ 3A Jeep with 20 unmovable rusted on wheel nuts. I'd set the T-wrench up on the nut. Support the horizontal bar sticking out from the wheel nut on a solid wood block and a bottle jack on the cross Tee. I'd jack on some pressure, fire up my torch make it red hot. Put a little more jack into it. Spray it with some ATF and Kerosene mixture. And go off to class. Come back and do it again. Jacking on the T started to turn the wheel so had to chain the wheels to the frame. Three weeks later, one nut at a time I had 20 loose nuts. And no broken studs. And reassembled with copious amounts of Permatex Neverseaze. Using Neverseaze allow you to use less torque on the fasteners by 40%. Don't over tighten. 

Now I know your not going to do that so just blow off the assembly with a cutting torch or cut it off with a grinder and weld on a 3/4 inch nut and call it good. When you tighten up the bolt on the tube you don't need to squeeze the water out of the steel. Just snug it up. Good enough.

Hey I'm just a crazy O`dirty mechanic. No stinking nut or bolt gets the better of skip.

I might screw up a lot of other things, but not fasteners.

As far as U-bolts are concerned these can also be purchased at Fleet-Farm, NAPA, CarQuest, AutoZone, O`Reily's, ... if the U-bolts look really rusty take 'em off and soak them in a Tupperware pan over night in muriatic acid from Ace Hardware. I just dig 'em out with my bare hands and then rinse hands and bolts under water. No big deal.





« Last Edit: December 15, 2013, 07:20:23 PM by skip1930 »