Hey Paul, congrats on the PC!
I bought my PC new in 2010, and had the broker's sailmaker make up my lazy jacks. They've worked out fine, but I have replaced the horn cleat he used with a turning block and a lance cleat, seen in the last picture.
The upper legs are easy-to-splice Dyneema, affixed about 36" below the masthead (that's 11 1/2" below the bolt attaching the stay and shroud bails), with a small block on the working end. A continuous 1/4" line (blue marker) runs from a eyestrap on the port side of the boom, 46 1/2" from the aft end, up to the port block. From there it drops down and passes under the boom, through an eyestrap 103" from the aft end of the boom, and back up to the starboard block. Then it's back to the cleat opposite the first eyestrap. I've rigged a bungee cradle to store excess line at the cleat. None of these dimensions are critical, but do make sure that the gaff is captured. The end of the gaff can foul in the lazy jacks if you don't raise the gaff parallel to the boom, for example.
In use, with the mast up and before the sail raised, the lazy jacks are set so the boom hovers just above the boom gallows and cinched down with the sheet. With the sheet free, it functions as a topping lift, handy if you fall off the wind. With the sail up, the lazy jacks are slack and don't crease the sail, no adjustment necessary. When it comes time to lower the mast, with the boom gooseneck below the hinge, the lazy jacks are released and all legs are brought forward and looped over the long pin, as is the peak halyard, and all lines snugged up. That controls the lines so they don't get tangled in the sail bundle, as they will if left to their own.
A few pictures should help. The forestay isn't rigged in the third photo, no need for concern!