This is why a cable is used from the 'eye' to the bow sprit.
In real life every heavy lift is 'cable', not 'chain', and not 'tube'. And the cable is sedged around a thimble to create an eye for pinning or a clevis.
Side bar: When using a clevis that screws the pin in to the yoke ... finger tight, then back the threads off a turn so if the clevis spreads, you can sill pull the pin.
BayShip Building's max-lift is 250 ton. On cable.
This sucks that that happened. Why? Because a nice shiny tube looks better than a nasty old rope wound cable?
If the boat is fitted with the bow set-up pictured ... modify the yoke on the leading edge of the hull as a one piece formed 'U' shape with the bolts through the bottom of the 'U' and outside mounting plate, through the hull and the hardpoint glassed in and backed up with a inside companion plate inside the boat that the flat washers and ny-loc nuts rest on. Tighten the bolts snug. No need to 'squeeze' the water out of the fiberglass and stress crack everything. Of course I would drown everything in 3M-5200 slow set, that alone ought to hold it ... just kidding, and spend the next hour wiping up the drips. Not kidding.
This makes a metal sandwich. Again. Thickness of the metal in decimal-inch x 10,000 lb divided by 4 = the strength in pounds of each layer of metal plate. This set-up would not even require welding. Just form it, drill it, bolt it, cable it. Bolts --:> I might consider 3/8-16 x #2 hex SLT, grade 8 with hardened washers. You'll not pull that apart before pulling the bow off the hull.
example; 3/8 inch plate [0.375] x 10,000 divided by 4 = 937 lb.